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We have developed a Preferred Material List to use internally to inform the design and production teams on better alternatives to current materials. This tool is available to view here.
Why synthetic fibres?
Synthetic textile materials, derived from petroleum-based chemicals, have gained substantial popularity since their emergence and make more than 60% of the global fibre usage today. Engineered to cater to specific needs, they provide high-tech versatility and making them suitable for diverse applications. Their durability and easy maintenance offers great advantages over natural fibres. Yet, at current scale synthetics have a high environmental impact and can cause micro plastic pollution, further are lot of synthetic textiles blended, which makes them hard to recycle efficiently. To address these concerns, the industry has invested in research, resulting in more sustainable and advanced synthetic textiles. These innovations include recycling technologies, bio-based materials, and improved durability. In the below section we are shortly presenting some of the synthetic fibres and materials and why we are using the materials in our products, along with our vision for potential eco-friendly substitutes in future.
Nylon belongs to the group of polyamide (PA) fibres and was the first ever developed synthetic fibre. It possesses great strength, high versatility, low weight and excellent abrasion resistance, making it a very durable fibre often used for technical and sports apparel. We are using nylon in many fabrics to create durable and long-lasting technical products.
As we look to reduce our reliance on fossil fuels, there is an opportunity to introduce recycled versions of nylon into our products. The recycled polyamide can help us to reduce the amount of plastic in landfills, in waterways, and in oceans by recovering resources like fishing nets. Alongside recycled material, bio-based alternatives show potential for use in the future. These materials rely on naturally occurring ingredients such as castor oil or biomass.
First developed in the 50s the fibre convicts by its outstanding versatility, strength, low weight and good abrasion resistance. Polyester (PES) is also often referred to as the workhorse fibre, since it became the most produced fibre by volume for textile applications. We are using polyester as a mono and blended material in many of our fabrics. The fibre does not provide the same strength as Nylon, but it is lightweight and has great moist wicking capabilities, making it a great fibre for sports and activewear.
Future alternatives to current virgin polyester, are recycled or bio-based forms. Shifting to these alternative fibre materials, helps to reduce our dependency on fossil fuels, limits the amount of plastic waste, and simultaneously lessens the carbon footprint in our value chain.
Fibres made of Elastane (ELA) are categorised as highly elastic synthetic fibres. Due to its molecular structure, consisting of flexible and rigid segments, elastane is highly elastic and has an excellent elastic recovery. The fibre was developed in the 50s under the name lycra and is also commonly known as spandex. Elastane is mostly blended with other fibre types to make fabrics elastic and allowing to create apparel that sits tightly on the body. Hence, fabrics with elastane are predominantly used in active and sportswear, where the fibre improves the fit, performance and comfort of a garment.
Responsible alternatives of elastane originate mostly from naturally grown feedstock which would make it a bio-based elastomer and recent developments made elastic fibres even biodegradable. Still, since Elastane is often blended in fabrics, it causes a problem in the recyclability of textile products. To improve recyclability, the development and implementation of mono-material fabrics is one approach towards more circularity.
Polypropylene (PP) belongs to the group of olefin and are a type of synthetic fibres based on fossil fuel derivates. Polypropylene (PP) or polyethylene (PE) are predominantly used for packaging or plastic parts and as such are a very common used material. Both PP and PE are strong materials, highly versatile and quite resistant to abrasion. Our bidons and several trims, such as fasteners for bags or tighteners in our pants, are made of PP. In textile form we are using PE in our socks, to strengthen the fabric structure and increase the durability of our socks.
Fabrics and products made from PP or PE are easily recyclable. Due to its chemical attributes it can be melted and reused in fibre form with minimal effort. Yet, in most cases PP and PE are blended with other materials in a textile, making it very difficult to recycle and even to dispose of properly. There are options to use recycled and bio-based PP and PE, the latter is already used to make our bidons, but since the material makes only a minor share in our textile products, it might be better to reduce the content.
Aramid is a variant of the nylon fibre with exceptional strength as well as heat and flame resistance. Developed in the 60s and 70s this highly technical fibre is often known under the name Nomex and Kevlar, and finds its use in many technical applications, such as protective apparel, tires and composite materials. We use patches of fabric strengthened by aramid fibres in our overshoes, to protect your feet and shoes from excessive friction.
Aramid is a synthetic fibre with an environmentally impactful manufacturing process. While it is recyclable, the chemicals used to treat and produce this material are harmful to ecosystems. The solution to this issue may be to move away from this material and find a fibre more suited to having multiple life cycles.
Polyurethane (PU) belongs to the group of elastomers that describes a group of elastic polymers, which are used for many applications beyond the textile industry. In non fibre form polyurethane is applied as a coating or film on textiles, to create a certain look, feel or functionality. We are using the excellent material properties of polyurethane as a membrane on some of our products, to achieve waterproofing properties.
All of the polyurethane we currently use is from virgin supplies to ensure a consistent and high-quality product but also requires many non-renewable resources. We are reducing the number of items with polyurethane content and identifying innovative ways to achieve an item’s technical properties without using fossil fuels.
Thermoplastic elastomers (TPE) are a plastic which is durable, lightweight and recyclable. They can be moulded easily and provide rugged and hard-wearing properties ideal for high-impact use. The material is used in our gym-mats, but it is more popularly used in the sole of sport shoes, since it has excellent cushioning properties.
In the future, we aim to use a material with a lower environmental footprint, which could include recycled material or natural rubber alternatives.
Neopren is a synthetic rubber, that can be used as a textile fibre, yet it is mostly used in form of a supported elastic film. Neoprene is a highly effective isolation and waterproof material for apparel. Due to the structure of the material and elastic properties, it is the ideal material for wetsuits and other swimwear products, that keep the wearer warm in an cold and wet environment. We are using the material as a bonded layer in our heavy overshoes for keeping your feet warm and dry in poor conditions.
Neoprene is created using fossil fuels, and the manufacturing process is highly energy-intensive. There are some alternatives, such as natural rubber-based materials. Currently, the most relevant outlook is to phase out neoprene and replace it with other materials with similar technical properties.
Why cellulosic fibres?
Natural cellulosic fibres encompass a group of natural fibres, which are extracted from the seed, bast or leaf of plants, and include materials like cotton, flax or linen. These fibres have long been used by human to create textiles, due to their versatility and durability.
Regenerated fibres on the other hand are made in a chemical process, wherein cellulosic raw material is dissolved and spun into a fibre. The fibre material created in the process commonly goes by the name viscose. Textiles made of viscose are very soft and have a good comfort on the skin. Both cotton and viscose can be found in our products, yet this type of fibre material comes with a high water absorbency, which makes it rather adverse to be used in sportswear.
The natural cellulosic fibre cotton (CO) is grown in tropical and subtropical regions. It is a great material, which is used for a variety of clothing and textiles. In textile form the fibre is soft, durable and can be used for many application. However, it is not a technical fibre and therefore does not meet the high technical standards of many synthetic materials. However, due to its high water content, is a great fibre for apparel that sits close to the body, where it is soft and comfortable to wear. Besides the great attributes as a textile material, cotton has been criticised for its high environmental impact. The extensive use of resources such as water, chemicals, and pesticides are issues the industry has to address.
In the recent years, we have transitioned from conventional cotton to organic cotton in our collections. Organic cotton uses no chemical fertilisers and pesticides, limits soil erosion and uses less water then conventional cotton. Governed by the body of the global organic textile standard (GOTS), it is ensured that the certified cotton stands up to their requirements. These standards cover aspects of the supply chain, including environmental and socially responsible manufacturing through to labelling, to provide credible assurance to the consumer.
The regenerated fibre viscose (VC) is made in an chemical process, where cellulosic raw materials are the basis. Although not a natural cellulosic fibre, it possesses many similar properties and hence convicts with great breathability and softness, yet it is increasingly being used for apparel in sportswear, as a very breathable and sustainable component. Viscose can come with lesser environmental footprint compared to cotton, however the chemical manufacturing process requires adequate treatment of effluents.
Many of these fibres are made using untraced materials; unregulated sourcing can exacerbate deforestation. Sourcing responsibly manufactured materials with certified processes and materials will help build a more responsible supply chain. Raw materials should be sourced from traceable and sustainable sources, and processes should have a minimal environmental impact.
Why wool fibres?
Wool fibres belong to the group of animals fibres and encompass a group of natural fibres produced by mammals such as sheep, cows, camels or goats. The majority of wool is produced by sheep and goats, yet it makes less than 1% of the global fibre production. Wool fibres have long been used to make clothing and textiles, because they provide excellent insulation, breathability, and the ability to absorb moisture, which makes it an ideal fibre for the use in apparel.
The Wool fibre can be a highly technical fibre and provides a set of properties, which are not met by most synthetic fibres. The most valuable wool is produced by the merino sheep, which provides a high quality fleece wool, used to make long lasting products with a soft hand. We are using wool as a technical component in products which are close to the body, to provide warmth and breathability.
Due to the unique properties wool provides, it is a highly valuable fibre used in textiles. Wool is recyclable to a certain extend and can then be reused as a fibre in a textile. The wool we use in our fabrics, comes from suppliers we trust, but we know we can do better with our tracing and certification. We aim to use wool which is certified by the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), a certification for wool suppliers to increase trust and consistency in supply chains.